When I picked up Jay's car in upstate NY the plan was to just take out the factory automatic transmission and install the GR700 manual. Well it turned out to be a little more of a project... Since Jay also had a ETS intercooler he wanted installed along with the transmission, I told Jay it was worth the money to just make this car full BPU and do a downpipe, intake and tune as well. I also converted the car over to TTC and got rid of all the factory twin boost control and did a boost control solenoid which is controlled with the Haltech. The car is making 15psi on the stock twins and runs great.

Jay has big plans for the car, and he plans on bringing it back over the winter. He was considering just going right in and doing the build right away, but since he just bought the car I told him "It's summertime, enjoy the car for a bit, and do the build over the winter when you can't drive the car anyway!"... So he agreed. Jay was torn between starting out with the GR700, or just taking the plunge and doing the GR1000 right off the start. I told him we can upgrade the trans over the winter at the same time we are doing the engine build.

So in essence, this is a temporary build, something for Jay to enjoy for a bit. He plans on doing a wild build, and his eventual goal is to do a full build to make 1500HP. 

Big thanks to Darin Dichiara for doing a nice job with the remote tune on this car!

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What I did on this "build":

1. Enclosed transport pickup/delivery (I can do this within 6 hours of PA)
2. Automatic transmission removal
3. GR700 install with Clutchmasters FX850 twin disc
4. Clutch pedal/brake pedal, Supra 6-speed interior panel, and Tilton Clutch Master adapter install
5. Auto to manual swap wiring (speedo, nuetral switch, reverse lights)
6. Installed a Grannas Racing auto to manual tunnel cover
7. ETS Intercooler install
8. TTC Conversion
9. HKS Intake install
10. Tanabe downpipe install, and welded on WB02 bung
11. Haltech Sport 2000 install w/ 3-port boost control and AEM wideband

Well, of course it doesn't shift exactly the same as a V160. The T56 Magnum is made by different company and has quite a bit different design, especially when it comes to the shifter.

If you want to experience the "feel" how the T56 Magnum shifts, you can test drive a 2010+ camaro SS, 2008-2013 Corvette, 2013+ Viper, 2007 Mustang GT500, or 2009+ Challenger. The same gearset is used in these factory cars, and this transmission is widely used by FORD, GM, and DODGE! Also, you may notice a recurring theme with all the car in the above list... High Performance!

The shifter is your connection to the car's heart, and you become very used to how the feel of each shift. I got very accustomed to the V160 after racing/driving it for 6 years, so when I first drove my car with the T56 Magnum I didn't love the shift feel. But after driving it for a short time, I got used to the feel and it became the new norm. I would describe the V160 as having long, loose throws. I say "loose" because the tripod design can give somewhat of a sloppy feel... which is totally different from the magnums integrated shifter, which has tight, super short throws.

I think this is why most of the auto guys who swap to this trans have no issue getting used to the shift feel. Only the guys who have driven the V160 for long periods like myself have gotten used to that v160 style shift feel, and at first may not like the change.

There are some people out there who say you degrade the value of your supra by putting a T56 Magnum in it. They believe the Getrag built V160 is some sort of God's gift to the world. I will admit, I AM one of those purists/weirdos when it comes to the 2JZ powerplant, which is the heart of the car. The TOYOTA made 2JZ quite possibly is God's gift. The Getrag made V160, while it is a great gearbox, it is just that... a gearbox. Swapping it out causes me no grief. Especially when it involves swapping it out for a trans that is capable and currently in production. I don't see the Supra purists having issue the factory auto guys who swap to a TH400.

Here is an example of the "clunky" T56 Magnum transmission on the highway LOL. This is Kyle's MKIV Supra from FL, he swapped from a factory auto to a magnum.

When I first started testing a T56 magnum I used an Australian made aluminum bellhousing. It worked well, and was a little bit cheaper than the Steel bellhousings offered in the USA. I also thought that the aluminum bellhousing would be much lighter, which is good for what I am doing... but recently I found that is not really the case. It is a only 2.8 lbs lighter than the steel bell.

Here is the weights of the quicktime bell vs the CRS aluminum bell.

Also shipping these CRS bellhousings the whole way from Australia pretty much kills the price savings over the Quicktime bells. So, I decided to try a quicktime bellhousing in my car... and I gotta say I am overall very impressed.

On the lift:

The quality is great, and the weight is not that much greater than the aluminum bell. And its SFI-approved for racing. The bell is tapped steel, versus tapped aluminum, so you don't have to worry about stripping threads. The steel is much stronger than the cast aluminum as well. So really, the pros of using a Quicktime bell now outweigh the cons, and I will be transitioning all of my kits over to use the Quicktime bellhousing.  

Here is my GR1000 kit installed on my 1994 Toyota Supra:

If you already bought a CRS bellhousing I do offer an CRS option for the MKIV Supra crossmember as well as the IS300 crossmember.

So there are only a few downsides to the Quicktime bellhousing, but I put together a remedy for that. First, they do not include proper hardware for the block. The bolts I got were not the large fine thread metric bolts the 2JZ block requires. So, an easy fix. I will provide the proper bolts if you purchase the bell from me. Second, the quicktime bell does not provide a pilot bearing for the T56 magnum input shaft. I have sourced these and will also include that with a purchase. Lastly quicktime bell hits the tunnel at the 10 o'clock position, but it is a 5 minute fix with an angle grinder.

Here are the bolts included from quicktime that were not correct, and the only bolts I had were too long for this test fit. I had to order short 1.5" 12x1.25 thread bolts since they are an odd size.

Rather than hammering the tunnel, I also chose to grind down the bellhousing where the clearance was a little tight. If you are looking at the rear of the bellhousing this is around the 10-o'clock position. 

Here is the bellhousing after the cutting/grinding.

Here it is after the cutting and re-install (before raising the motor up to level)

Here you can see the proper size sealed pilot bearing I include with my kits. This is not provided by Quicktime or CRS with their bells.

Other than those few issues this bellhousing installs quite easily. If you are looking to swap your Supra, IS300 or other 2JZ car and looking for a kit or an install email me.

Here are my kits:

GR700 Recommended for applications making 500-800RWHP	GR900 Recommended for applications making OVER  800 RWHP	GR1000 Recommended for applications making over 1000 RWHP	GR1000F Recommended for race applications making over 1000 RWHP