Well, of course it doesn't shift exactly the same as a V160. The T56 Magnum is made by different company and has quite a bit different design, especially when it comes to the shifter.

If you want to experience the "feel" how the T56 Magnum shifts, you can test drive a 2010+ camaro SS, 2008-2013 Corvette, 2013+ Viper, 2007 Mustang GT500, or 2009+ Challenger. The same gearset is used in these factory cars, and this transmission is widely used by FORD, GM, and DODGE! Also, you may notice a recurring theme with all the car in the above list... High Performance!

The shifter is your connection to the car's heart, and you become very used to how the feel of each shift. I got very accustomed to the V160 after racing/driving it for 6 years, so when I first drove my car with the T56 Magnum I didn't love the shift feel. But after driving it for a short time, I got used to the feel and it became the new norm. I would describe the V160 as having long, loose throws. I say "loose" because the tripod design can give somewhat of a sloppy feel... which is totally different from the magnums integrated shifter, which has tight, super short throws.

I think this is why most of the auto guys who swap to this trans have no issue getting used to the shift feel. Only the guys who have driven the V160 for long periods like myself have gotten used to that v160 style shift feel, and at first may not like the change.

There are some people out there who say you degrade the value of your supra by putting a T56 Magnum in it. They believe the Getrag built V160 is some sort of God's gift to the world. I will admit, I AM one of those purists/weirdos when it comes to the 2JZ powerplant, which is the heart of the car. The TOYOTA made 2JZ quite possibly is God's gift. The Getrag made V160, while it is a great gearbox, it is just that... a gearbox. Swapping it out causes me no grief. Especially when it involves swapping it out for a trans that is capable and currently in production. I don't see the Supra purists having issue the factory auto guys who swap to a TH400.

Here is an example of the "clunky" T56 Magnum transmission on the highway LOL. This is Kyle's MKIV Supra from FL, he swapped from a factory auto to a magnum.

Jay's 40k mile 1997 Supra MKIV was originally an automatic car, but after some Grannas Racing magic it is now swapped to a manual transmission, specifically a GR700 magnum. Here is part two of the video of the swap progress. I hope this helps you guys to get all your ducks in a row to swap from an auto to a manual. Let's make supra's great again!

All of the parts shown in this video I also can provide for your swap. Even the OEM pieces, like clutch pedal, interior panel, and brake pedal.

In part two of the auto-to-manual MKIV Supra swap I will go over the following items:

• Clutch pedal install (and the manual brake pedal as well - yes it is different)
• Clutch master cylinder install (Tilton adapter) but also applies to using a stock master.
• Driveshaft install
• Wiring a Dakota Digital SGI-5E to translate the T56 Magnum speed sensor to the stock speedometer/odometer
• Wiring the reverse lights, and neutral safety bypass.
• Recommended transmission fluid for GR700 (T56 Magnum)

Outside the normal tools that are required:

1. An angle drill, lowest profile you can find.
2. 1-3/8" hole saw bit

Here is the video!

LINK BACK TO PART ONE

A customer recently brought me his beautiful 40k mile 1997 MKIV supra automatic for a GR700 swap and I thought it would be a perfect opportunity to document the manual swap process in a 1993-1998 supra. This is the first video in the series, and it will cover the removal of the stock automatic transmission, and install of the GR-Series swap kit.

The removal portion includes removal of the stock auto shifter assembly, removal of driveshaft, torque converter, transmission cooler lines, and flexplate.

The install portion includes modification of the tunnel to fit the 6-speed shifter, installation of my conversion tunnel cover, setting the proper gap for the hydraulic throw out bearing, installing the shifter, trimming the front case of the transmission, modifying the reverse solenoid, and crossmember install.

So, without further delay, here is part one! 

LINK TO PART TWO

In this episode we will be covering the install of my hybrid 2JZ to T56 FX300 clutch. This will include running a new line from the master cylinder to the hydraulic throw out bearing, as well as getting the air gap correct between the clutch fingers and the throwout bearing.

Air gap is of utmost importance. Too little gap and your bearing will be riding the clutch at all times... This can lead to clutch slippage and premature bearing failure. Too much gap can be just as bad! If there is too much gap, you can over-throw the maximum length of your hydraulic bearing and blow out the seal. When you do this, you will have to rebuild the bearing, and you'll be removing the transmission to do that.

So, measure twice and install once! The video will cover how to measure the block to clutch finger distance as well as the quicktime bellhousing to bearing distance. Then you will add 3mm of distance to the finger measurements, in this case I had a measurement of 61.5mm from block to clutch fingers. Add 3mm for an ideal bellhousing depth measurement of 64.5mm

For the clutch line, I wanted to eliminate any extra adapters and old fittings and ran a new line direct from the master down to the hydraulic bearing. I sell this clutch line kit on my site, which will work with any 10x1.0mm threaded master cylinder (is300, sc300, MKIV supra). The kit includes a 48" -3an braided line, a 10mm banjo bolt, and a banjo to -3an adapter fitting.