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Supra T56 Magnum Swap - 2JZ Quicktime Steel SFI bellhousing vs CRS aluminum bellhousing
Dec 08, 2016
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Filed under gr1000f, supra, t56, t56 magnum, transmission

Supra T56 Magnum Swap - 2JZ Quicktime Steel SFI bellhousing vs CRS aluminum bellhousing

When I first started testing a T56 magnum I used an Australian made aluminum bellhousing. It worked well, and was a little bit cheaper than the Steel bellhousings offered in the USA. I also thought that the aluminum bellhousing would be much lighter, which is good for what I am doing... but recently I found that is not really the case. It is a only 2.8 lbs lighter than the steel bell.

Here is the weights of the quicktime bell vs the CRS aluminum bell.
2JZ t56 swap bellhousings

Also shipping these CRS bellhousings the whole way from Australia pretty much kills the price savings over the Quicktime bells. So, I decided to try a quicktime bellhousing in my car... and I gotta say I am overall very impressed.

On the lift:
toyota supra t56 magnum grannas racing swap tr6060

The quality is great, and the weight is not that much greater than the aluminum bell. And its SFI-approved for racing. The bell is tapped steel, versus tapped aluminum, so you don't have to worry about stripping threads. The steel is much stronger than the cast aluminum as well. So really, the pros of using a Quicktime bell now outweigh the cons, and I will be transitioning all of my kits over to use the Quicktime bellhousing.

Here is my GR1000 kit installed on my 1994 Toyota Supra:
t56 magnum supra 2jz swap tr6060

If you already bought a CRS bellhousing I do offer an CRS option for the MKIV Supra crossmember as well as the IS300 crossmember.

t56 magnum mount crossmember supra 2jz mkiv

So there are only a few downsides to the Quicktime bellhousing, but I put together a remedy for that. First, they do not include proper hardware for the block. The bolts I got were not the large fine thread metric bolts the 2JZ block requires. So, an easy fix. I will provide the proper bolts if you purchase the bell from me. Second, the quicktime bell does not provide a pilot bearing for the T56 magnum input shaft. I have sourced these and will also include that with a purchase. Lastly quicktime bell hits the tunnel at the 10 o'clock position, but it is a 5 minute fix with an angle grinder.

Here are the bolts included from quicktime that were not correct, and the only bolts I had were too long for this test fit. I had to order short 1.5" 12x1.25 thread bolts since they are an odd size.
bolts for t56 magnum swap supra

Rather than hammering the tunnel, I also chose to grind down the bellhousing where the clearance was a little tight. If you are looking at the rear of the bellhousing this is around the 10-o'clock position.
bellhousing modifications t56 magnum swap quicktime bellhousing supra 2jz

Here is the bellhousing after the cutting/grinding.
cut bellhousing t56 magnum quicktime supra 2jz swap tr6060

Here it is after the cutting and re-install (before raising the motor up to level)
quicktime steel 2jz bellhousing supra t56 magnum t56 swap

Here you can see the proper size sealed pilot bearing I include with my kits. This is not provided by Quicktime or CRS with their bells.
Supra T56 Magnum swap pilot bearing 2JZ tr6060

Other than those few issues this bellhousing installs quite easily. If you are looking to swap your Supra, IS300 or other 2JZ car and looking for a kit or an install email me.

Here are my kits:

GR700 Recommended for applications making 500-800RWHP	GR900 Recommended for applications making OVER 800 RWHP	GR1000 Recommended for applications making over 1000 RWHP	GR1000F Recommended for race applications making over 1000 RWHP

GR1000F - A Faceplated Tremec T56 Magnum
Jul 17, 2016
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Filed under gr1000f, supra, t56, t56 magnum, transmission

GR1000F - A Faceplated Tremec T56 Magnum

Let's face it... Drag racing competitively on a synchronized transmission is not only painfully expensive, but also extremely frustrating. Some might even say it's a waste of time! I have been locked out of gears at high rpm, had gear failures, mis-shifts, and multiple ruined synchronizer rings over the past 2 years while running the V160 under extreme horsepower.

Not only is broken parts a problem, but the speed at which you can shift is limited by the synchronizers. Trying to go fast with a giant turbo, and still using a synchro box is a battle I have been losing. I have always ran nitrous to combat the car coming out of power between shifts... but nitrous has also caused me failures. I have cracked the intake manifold more than once due to backfires.

While I have not had any issues with my synchro GR1000 transmission since I made the change, I have been watching videos of the Honda guys running faceplated/dogbox transmissions. These guys use a strain gauge to interrupt power, which make the shifts lightning fast. This allows full throttle shifting. Not only that, but I saw Len Bacon's orange RX7 pick up massive ET (a half second!!!) by switching from a factory transmission to a g-force. So basically it's time to quit playing around... I know I am loosing tons of ET continuing with these synchro boxes.

You could faceplate a V160... but now that parts are impossible to find that would be a waste of time. One broken trans and you would be screwed... This is one of the reasons I swapped to the Tremec T56 Magnum. There is so much more aftermarket support available for the magnum. Sequential shifters, faceplating, gear ratios, etc etc! And when you need to do a rebuild... parts are readily available! I have seen so many people gouging others selling discontinued V160 parts.

faceplated gears

From Left: synchronized gear, Pro-shifted gear, Faceplated gear

So, about 3 months ago I placed an order for a faceplated transmission. It has billet shift forks, is fully cryogenically treated, and has everything the GR1000 has but then add on faceplated 1st-4th gears. It is the ULTIMATE 6-speed transmission.

The transmission has been sitting in my garage for about a month, waiting for me to install. An opportunity came up to run a 1/2 mile event locally and I figured what better time than now to throw this box in and give it a test.

I do not want to run nitrous at the 1/2 mile, so shifting speed is of utmost importance. To me, it was a no brainer to try this transmission and see how much faster it could be shifted... and how much better it can keep me in power on shifts.

Here is an example of a faceplated gear. Notice the synchros only have about 5-6 teeth

I did some street testing on the transmission, and the video below is the first time I ever drove the car on the GR1000F. First impressions are that this thing is amazing! I need to adjust the clutch a bit, as its engaging way too far up off the floor, so gear changes are still a bit slower than they could be. I am anxious to really push this box to the limit.

So am I completely done with synchronized boxes? Hell no, I am still going to chase that record! I will be back, but this is gonna be used at the 1/2 mile and I might do some 1/4 mile testing with it as well.