Arrow Fat Left Icon Arrow Fat Right Icon Arrow Right Icon Cart Icon Close Circle Icon Expand Arrows Icon Facebook Icon Instagram Icon Hamburger Icon Information Icon Down Arrow Icon Mail Icon Mini Cart Icon Person Icon Ruler Icon Search Icon Shirt Icon Triangle Icon Bag Icon Play Video

Grannas Racing

Ford 8.8" Rear End Swap Kit for Toyota Supra / Lexus SC300

$ 1,162.95

Grannas Racing

Ford 8.8" Rear End Swap Kit for Toyota Supra / Lexus SC300

$ 1,162.95

Sold out

 

VERSION 1 KIT IS NOW DISCONTINUED

OUR NEW ULTIMATE 8.8 KIT IS NOW AVAILABLE

ULTIMATE SUPRA 8.8 KIT

 

Different from all the other 8.8 kits out there, we designed this kit around the use of main cap load bolts, which are integrated into the aluminum diff cover that comes with my kit. These load bolts provide support for the main bearing caps in the rear, for dramatically increased strength on hard acceleration. This is a very important part of these 8.8 rears when it comes to high horsepower applications. The rear mounting "cage" was designed specifically to allow access to these load bolts, while still allowing for a full bolt in kit.

Watch my video on the install below to see how the load bolts work.

The Ford 8.8 is widely used and regarded as a great bang for your buck rear end. It has many many gear options available, which makes it not only very affordable, but also very flexible! 

This ford 8.8 kit will only work with a 2007-2010 Ford Explorer 8.8 IRS case. I chose this case because they are the cheapest and easiest to find! These junkyard rear diffs can be found at your local junkyard for $130-250. Pretty cool, right??!! This kit will allow you to bolt in this strong, affordable rear end kit into your Toyota Supra MKIV or Lexus SC300. The kit is 100% bolt in, and used your factory rear subframe mounting holes. The rear cage and front mount also come with a lifetime warranty! I am confident they will hold whatever you throw at them!

There are two options for axles. This kit is not sold without axles.

Level 5 Axles:
The first option are the Driveshaft Shop Level 5 axles, which have a billet outer stub that will bolt-in to your factory wheel hubs. These are good for around 1000hp.

PRO Axles:
The heavy hitter option is the Driveshaft Shop Pro-Level 1400HP axles, which include a heavier bar and also upgraded outer wheel hubs. The hub is a weak link in extreme power cars, so these will be only for the really big power guys.

The Grannas Racing 8.8 Kit Includes:

  1. Low Profile Cast aluminum rear diff cover
  2. Fabricated rear cage mount
  3. Fabricated front crossmember mount
  4. All hardware required for installation
  5. Rear overflow can
  6. Customer will need to find core diff at local junkyard, usually these go for $150-250. 

Axles are normally in stock. Aluminum or Carbon Fiber driveshafts can be made for any transmission combination, i stock a lot of these as well. Just let me know what chassis (SC300 or Supra) and what transmission combo you are running in the order notes! 

You can have a local shop mustang/domestic shop build your junkyard 8.8. In the dropdown options, you can select a GR rebuild kit which includes an Truetrac LSD, and gear ratio of your choice, and all new bearings and seals. For ring and pinion, in V160 cars I recommend a 3.25 gear, for the T56 Magnum / GR series transmissions I recommend 4.10 gearing.

I do not recommend using any other gear than Ford Motorsports, as they are the quietest gears made. The ratios they offer are 3.31, 3.55, 3.73 and 4.10

Check out the pictures to see the stacking order for the front mount hardware.

 

RECOMMENDATIONS:

With the ultra-low profile cover you only use 1.7 quarts of fluid. I recommend Lucas brand 85-140 gear oil. 

I also recommend that you run a small breather/catch can (10oz or so) off the breather nipple on the rear cover. Even tho we install a baffle on the super low profile cover, the fluid tends to get very whipped up inside the case. The velocity tends to spit fluid out of the breather even with a long line attached. Therefore, I recommend a small breather/can with an inlet in the bottom and a breather on the top that way the fluid can drain back into the diff after running, and you won't lose any fluid out of the system this way.